Stylearc Sadie

My next sleeved top is the Stylearc Sadie tunic.  Everybody chooses this pattern for its sleeve detail.  The twist in the sleeve gives the sleeve a fashionably full shape, without the gathering or elastic that usually accompanies a full sleeve.

Like other sewers before me, I shortened the tunic to hip length.

In this next photo you can see the shaped hemline. 

You can also see that the neckline is not sitting quite right.  I made a square shoulder adjustment and hollow chest adjustment.  I just guessed at the square shoulder, because the neckline is much wider than most bodice patterns and I was too lazy to get another pattern out to check how much I needed to add, and I did not get it quite square enough.  I always just guess at the hollow chest adjustment, because it is one I made up myself, but I should have taken a little bit more out of the front neck.  Another adjustment I would like to make next time is to add a little bit more width across the back.

This next photo is an odd photo to include, but it reminded me to talk about the back.  You can see that I did not include the back neck opening with button and loop, but I did keep the back seam.  In her drafting course, Suzy Furrer suggests keeping a CB seam when you can, to allow for back shaping, even in loosely fitted garments.  I added some back shaping to the CB seam.  You'll have to believe me when I say it allows for a nice drape, because none of my photos actually confirms this.

The fabric is another Atelier Brunette viscose crepe from Imagine Gnats.  This fabric is much celebrated amongst sewing bloggers.  It feels beautiful and has a lovely drape, but it does crush easily and needs to be pressed after washing.

Stylearc Avery Tunic

I've never liked wearing garments with sleeves, and I have a lot of trouble fitting them.  I seem to need multiple alterations---square shoulders, forward shoulder, prominent front shoulder joint, skinny arms.  I have recently moved to a cooler climate, so I am going to have to suck it up and start sewing garments with sleeves.  I made it a bit easy this time around, choosing the Stylearc Avery Tunic, which utilises a knit fabric for the upper bodice and sleeves and a woven fabric for the main body.

The Stylearc line drawing shows contrasting fabrics, but I went with this matching terry knit and Atelier Brunette viscose crepe.  I can't remember where I got the terry from, but have already used it to make my daughter a dance sweater.  I got the viscose crepe from Imagine Gnats.  Imagine Gnats is my favourite place to shop when I am looking for fabrics for good quality basics.  I get so easily lured by fantastic prints, but if it is plains I want, I know I'll leave Imagine Gnats with what I wanted and not a basket filled with fabrics for fantasy clothes!  This crepe has a lovely drape, but it does crush terribly.

You can see the signature Stylearc hem detail.

Niizo Simple Day Casual Backpack

I had a lovely day today sewing up this backpack from Niizo, which I purchased as a kit.  

Front View.  I did learn some new techniques to sew on those leather accents.

Nifty pocket accessed through a side zip.

The kit includes canvas fabric for the outer, nylon for the lining and all the hardware and pre-punched leather accents.  All the components are great quality.  The only bit I changed out was the contrast lining for the top flap.  This contrast was from a tiny remnant I picked up years ago that has been patiently waiting for the right project to come along.

Inside view; one deep pocket and one smaller patch pocket.

Back view, showing back pocket.

The pattern includes some lovely details, such as these triangular tabs where the strap attaches to the bag.  

The final result is very professional looking.  The only bit I had trouble with was attaching the bottom of the bag, as there were multiple layers, including a layer of foam, and I did not manipulate the corners through all those layers as well as I would have liked.

In the interest of blogging completeness. I think the singlet I am wearing is an unblogged project.  It is Jalie 2565 made up in a snuggly bamboo / cotton / spandex  rib knit from Imagine Gnats.  I made 2 of these, with my usual alterations, only the rib binding pulled the armholes in tighter than usual, so the first one is sitting in the sewing room waiting to be unpicked and re-bound (ugh).  I cut the armholes lower on the second one and it is super comfy. 

Stylearc Elani Tunic mash-up

I have had a few instances where a woven garment with an extended sleeve has ripped horizontally under the armscye.  Sadly, my Stylearc Autumn dress ripped the first time I wore it.  (I have since repaired it and changed the sleeve to a cap sleeve).

I like the style of the Elani tunic, but decided I needed to put in a proper sleeve, to give me a little more room for movement.  I have done quite a bit of pattern drafting, but I am not all that experienced with drafting sleeves, so I went looking for a pattern in my stash that had the sort of sleeve I wanted.  I thought that a slightly dropped shoulder would suit the vibe of the Elani tunic.  Upon trawling through my pattern stash, I found that there are not too many patterns out there for a slightly dropped sleeve.  There are plenty for a fully dropped sleeve, but I thought I would have the same problems with that as I do with extended sleeve, given that the fully dropped sleeve appears to be tacked onto an extended sleeve anyway.  Eventually, I stumbled on Burda 5/2011 #111, which had the sort of sleeves I was looking for.

I sewed the facing down on the inside, as per in the instructions.  It can be tricky to get the facing to match up well with the garment, in my experience, so usually I don't do this, but it worked out okay this time.  I changed the sleeve hem to a double fold hem, turned up, rather than use a sleeve facing.  Looks like I might need to add a bit more room for my prominent shoulder bones.

You can see the sleeve seam in the photo below.  I kept the original high low hem of the Elani.

The fabric is a rayon challis from Imagine Gnats. 

I have fallen off the wagon with Me-Made-May due to illness, but this top has featured twice already.