Showing posts with label tutorial. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tutorial. Show all posts

29.3.17

Coverstitch Binding in the Round

I have an amazing tutorial for you today.  Well, nearly amazing.  Not quite perfect, but I haven't seen another tutorial like this out there.

And, like many improvements, born out of necessity.

I forgot to bind the neckline of my sports bra before sewing the shoulder seams together.  It was a new pattern and I was having lots of issues with it, so I just forgot.


So this is what I did.

I stay-stitched a short line the width of the binding and made a clip.


The I went to the cover-stitch machine and started binding at the clip.  In the photo below, you can see that I am holding the section above the clip out of the way.


Continue binding all the way around.  Fold the start binding out of the way as you finish.


Here it is off the machine.  This is the less than amazing bit.  You can see that my start is not perfect.


Trim the ends of the binding.  Fold garment right sides together so that you can sew the ends of the binding together.  Using a hump jumper will help the ends stay aligned as you sew this together. Here is my bonus tip for the day.  I have a hump jumper, but you can also use the plastic case that sewing needles come in, as it is a good height for this (and usually on hand!)


This is what is looks like now.


Trim the ends, press open (well, I didn't actually press, but it conveys the action required) and stitch down (again using a hump jumper) .


From the wrong side.


And the right side.  You can see that it is not quite perfect because of my start, but this was my first time and I will get better :).


The completed neckline.


It is actually neater than when I bind before sewing the shoulder seams because it all lines up better.  I can see myself using this technique a lot in the future. especially on leotards and swimmers for my daughter.

1.11.15

Tutorial - QAYG, joining the blocks without sashing

For my regular blog readers, this tutorial is going to come a little from left field.  This year, I have found myself in the position of teaching quilting classes.  Now, I have made one or two quilts in my time, but I never even found out how proper quilters go about this whilst I was making them... so I have had to learn on the run.

In my classes, we have been exploring quilt-as-you go techniques.  I wanted to find a better way of joining the blocks together.  I have read quite a few online tutorials, but they mostly seemed a little clumsy.  So I came up with my own way (this is not to say that nobody else has done it this way...but I have not seen it done quite like this).

Start with your two blocks to be joined.  They should already be quilted to the wadding and backing.  The backing should extend beyond your block about 1 inch (at least on one of the blocks).  The quilting should stop before the edge, probably no closer than about an inch from the edge of the block.  You can see that I have not washed out the marker I used to draw my quilting lines.


Square and trim one of the blocks.  On the first block, you want to trim the block, wadding and backing all to the same size.


Here it is, all trimmed up. You can put this aside for the time being.


On the other block, you need to fold the backing out of the way...which is why you can't quilt all the way to the edge of the block.


Then square and trim the side of the block and the wadding.



On that same block, we want to trim the wadding back further.  We want the wadding to be trimmed 1/2 inch smaller than the block. (From this point on, you need to excuse my dirty fingernails...I got home from camping at lunch time and haven't cleaned them yet).


This is a little tricky, and we don't want anyone to cut themselves with the rotary cutter.  I used pattern weights to hold the top layer back whilst I cut the wadding.


Now unfold the backing so that it can be trimmed.  An experienced and precise quilter could probably trim the backing to 1/2 inch bigger than the block.  My students are generally beginners and are still developing their sewing accuracy, and I like to allow a little for turn of cloth, so I trimmed to 5/8 inch larger than my block.



So, here you can see the trimmed block.  The wadding is 1/2 in smaller than the block and the backing extends 5/8 inch beyond the block.



Now, for the ever-so-slightly tricky bit.  Line up the edge of the backing with the edge of the wadding and stitch together with a 1/4 inch seam.  I don't often use pins, but my students love to use them.  If you like pins, you can pin to your heart's content before stitching.  Some of the students are able to use their walking foot for this step.  Others have a walking foot that is difficult to use for 1/4 inch seams, and so switch over to their 1/4 inch foot for this.  It really depends on your machine and foot.  If you can't use your walking foot, go slowly and use use good holding techniques to overcome the effects of the feed dogs.



Once you have stitched the backing to the wadding, press the backing so that it forms a fold that sticks out past the wadding.  Take your time to smooth the backing all the way from the stitching line.  This is easier than trying to turn under an accurate seam allowance later.



Now get your first block (the one we trimmed first and put aside).  Put it right sides together with the second block.  My blocks are random blocks, so I do not need to match any seams...but if you do, take care to match any seams on the two blocks at this point.  The two blocks are then stitched together with a 1/4 inch seam.  We are stitching through all 3 layers of the first block (top, wadding and backing) and the top layer of the second block...so through 4 layers altogether.  Again, your choice as to whether you use a walking foot or 1/4 inch foot.  You will need to hold the folded backing edge of the second block out of the way whilst you do this.


 All stitched together.



Open out the blocks. Everything should sit nicely, with no lumpy overlap of wadding.



Now you can press the folded backing of the second block over the join.  There are several ways you can finish up from here.  The neatest is probably hand stitching the fold down, the same way you would hand stitch the quilt binding.  Another option is to machine quilt a straight line.  If you do this from the back, the line is not likely to end up in the ditch on the front...but some of my students like to do this anyway.  You could stitch in the ditch from the front, and because we allowed that extra 1/8 inch when trimming the second backing, it should, in theory, catch the fold at the back.


 Me, I like to finish quickly and get back to my dressmaking, so I used a decorative patchwork stitch from the front, which covers a few sins.



Here is the back view.  If you secure the backs before sewing the next block, you wont be able to stitch all the way to the end because you will need to be able to fold the backing back when trimming ready to attach the next block...no matter if you have...a few moments with a quick unpick will sort that out.



Happy quilting, xx

14.6.15

Construction of V-back dress bodice

So, moving on from the previous post, which was a tutorial for inserting an invisible zipper into a V, here is the order of construction of bodice with zips and facings.  This is my actual dress, not a sample, so the fabric choices and details are not as clear as the previous tutorial.

1.  Here you can see my prepared bodice and facing pieces.  The front bodice is sewn to the back bodice at the shoulder seams.  The darts are sewn.  The back neckline and opening are interfaced (the only reason that the interfacing does not go all the way to the shoulder seam is that I added it as an afterthought).  The zipper opening is overlocked.

The front and back facings are fully interfaced.  The bottom edges are finished by overlocking.  The front and back facings are attached at the shoulder seams.



2.  Pin the facings to the bodice, right sides together and lining up the shoulder seams.  Stitch the armholes of the facings to the armholes of the bodice.  I only have 1/4" seam allowances here, so no need to trim.  If you have larger seam allowances you may want to trim, clip and grade these seam allowances.   I think it would be a good idea to understitch the armholes at this point.  I did it later, but I think it would be easier here.


3.  Stitch the facings to the bodice at the neckline.  Leave half of the back neckline open to allow for the zipper insertion.  If you look carefully at the photographs, you can see my thread tails where I stopped stitching on the back neck line.  Again, it would probably be a good idea to understitch the front neck line now.


Trim, clip and grade the seam allowance on the front neckline, if required.


4.  Pull one of the backs through to the front, turning right side out, through the shoulder seam.


 
 5. Repeat for the other back.


6.  Mark the placement of the zipper stop on the outside of the back bodice pieces, as per the previous tutorial.

7.  Pin the zipper in place, placing the stops right on the mark.  The zip is right side to the right side of the bodice, zipper teeth facing away from the edges.  My zipper tape is only 3/8" wide, not 1/2" wide, which is why they are not lined up on the edges.


8.  Baste the zipper in place with a regular zipper foot.


9.  Do up the zipper and check that nothing is twisted or misaligned.


10.  Undo the zipper again and sew in place using an invisible zipper foot.



11.  Mark 1/4" in from the edge of the back facing (remember that the back facing has NO seam allowance on the back seam).


12.  Line up the facing and seam allowance of the back bodice on the 1/4" mark.  This will be your stitching line.  Stitch the facing to the seam allowance using a regular zipper foot.  The zip will be sandwiched between the facing and the bodice seam allowance.  You may wish to refer to the previous tutorial to see this more clearly.


13.  Fold the bodice on the CB seam line, so that the edges of the facing and bodice are aligned.



14.  Stitch the facing and bodice together along the back neckline, joining up with your previous stitching in Step 3.

15.  Turn facing to inside.






16.  Understitch as far as practicable.



17.  Now the side seams of the facings and bodice can be sewn together in a single pass.  You can see that I have two side darts on my front bodice.



I have not attached the skirt of the dress or sewn the zip all the way down.  I drafted this bodice as part of a craftsy class and I haven't actually decided what sort of skirt to stick on it yet.  Hopefully I will get to that later this week!  Then I can show you the completed bodice on me.