11.2.18

Vogue 1247 (SBA in a dolman sleeved top)



When Vogue 1247 was first released, I admired the many beautiful versions that popped up on the blogs.  My sister gave me the pattern 7 years ago!! and it has taken until now to overcome my fear of the fitting changes I would required.  These fitting changes seemed to work, so I thought that I would share them here.

I started with a Size 14 and went about doing an SBA.  First off, I slashed the pattern 3 ways; from bust point to the shoulder point; from bust point to the waist seam; and from bust point through the bust dart at CF.


Instead of spreading apart (as you would do for a FBA), I overlapped the pieces.  I overlapped them enough to take out half the difference between my actual bust measurement and the stated Sz 14 bust measurement.


You could probably leave it at that, but I decided to straighten out the waist seam and add back in a CF bust dart.  I drew a horizontal line across the waist and extended the from seam down to this line.  I measured a difference of 4 cm between the original pattern and the new waist line.


I used my sloper to mark in my actual bust point.  Then I drew in a dart to the centre front, with an opening of 4 cm (to match the previous measured 4 cm).  I redrew the lower CF seam so that it was at least perpendicular to the waist seam.


In this next photo, you can see that I folded up the dart to true the edges of the pattern.


I added a bit of height to the low V front.


Here I am comparing the new pattern to the original pattern.  If you want to short cut this process, it looks like you can just take in the CF seam!


I then compared the waist length on the upper front with the lower front and folded out any discrepancy in length.


Here is the finished product.  It took me 3 hours to sew this up.  I know this, because I took this project when I went away for a gymnastics workshop for my son, and had 3 hours in the hotel room during the workshop.  Yes, I took my sewing machine with me!  I wanted to sew more than I wanted to sight-see or shop.

You can see that the bust dart hits in the right spot.  I could probably lower the neckline back to the original height on the pattern, but I am comfortably with it at this height.  The neckline does not fall off my shoulders.




I love the final product.  The fabric is a silk crepe de chine from EmmaOneSock, which sadly creases more than I would like.  The overall feel of the garment is slouchily elegant.  I meant to sew up a second one straight away, now that the pattern fits, but I actually made this a couple of months ago and have not made a second one yet.  There is one in my plan for the wardrobe contest currently on at PR.

7 comments:

  1. I love this pattern. Your adjustments are spot on. And I totally understand sewing instead of sightseeing!

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  2. Your adjustments look fantastic! I always loved the overall shape of this pattern but it was just too roomy for me.

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  3. Beautiful! Love it! Thanks for showing your adjustments! Is the kind of think I need to do too sometimes!

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  4. Very nice top! Your adjustments look spot on!! I always had a soft spot for this pattern but when I made it some years ago (without carefully adjusting it like you did) it ended up not being very wearable as it was constantly riding back... Maybe I should revisit it..

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  5. Spot on adjustment - the end result is schmick as. And it looks great!!! I think you hit a great midpoint with the neckline height on this one too - it's really just a little too low as it is, I have a wear a singlet under mine to make it not ridiculous!

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  6. I still haven't made this pattern. Afraid it would be too unstructured and overwhelm me. I love the perfect "slouchy elegant" fit you got with the SBA. And really pretty fabric too.

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  7. It looks fantastic - like you I have admired lots of versions out there, but have yet to attempt it myself - maybe this is the year!

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