11.9.18

Tessuti Claudia Dress or Striped Linen Dress 1

This is the other stripy linen dress I made.  My friend told me not to wear it with a yellow t-shirt, unless I wanted to get mistaken for B1 or B2 :)





The pattern is the Claudia dress, from Tessuti.  The fabric is also from Tessuti.  I had a pair of blue and white striped shorts that I made and adored when I was a teenager, so I couldn't resist buying this similarly striped fabric.

I ordered the pattern and the fabric at the same time.  I cut somewhere between a small and a medium.  I bought the amount stated for 140 cm wide fabric, but it took a bit of jiggling to get the pieces to fit, so I can recommend buying a bit extra.

I made the straps wider than the pattern, so that I could wear a normal bra, though I have to pick the right bra for the straps to sit in the right place at the front.  I adjusted the strap length so that the bust dart sat in the right spot.  I cut down the height of the apron at the front and took the side of the apron in a bit.  I could have just gone with longer straps, but then the bust dart would have been in the wrong spot and it the dress wouldn't have covered my bra at the sides. 

The linen is quite a loose weave, so I think I would have been better off using a different fabric for the facing.  This one is in self fabric and doesn't sit too well, even with under-stitching.

The side splits are a lovely detail.  I like the way the pockets are sewn.

I have been hankering after an apron dress for a while, but I don't think that this dress has tempered my craving.  I think I need to make one with more of a bib front, to be worn over a t-shirt.

29.8.18

Stylearc Gabby Jacket in Milly Neon Floral.


Sewing is a tumultuous journey, a few highs, a few lows and plenty of average.  This project is one of my highs, both in terms of sewing construction and the completed garment. 


This next photo shows both the jacket lining and the self drafted top I made to go with the jacket.  The lining and top are made from different fabrics, although the colour looks similar in this photo.  The fabric top is a silk  with little stars woven into the print.  I think that the lining is a rayon fabric, but as I bought it for a previous project, I couldn't be sure.  I altered the lining pieces on this pattern to give more ease in the lining (details in the review below).


The sleeve heads on this pattern are unusual.  The bonus is that you get all the room you need in the sleeve cap without having to ease the sleeve into the armhole.  Genius!


I added a CB seam to the jacket to allow for a little more fitting to the back.


Gotta show off the welt pocket.  The pocket depth as drafted was too shallow to be functional, but a review by another sewer alerted me to this fact ahead of time, and I was able to increase the pocket depth easily.


Bonus photo - shown with the matching shorts from my previous post.  I actually first wore the jacket with a striped tee and jeans, which is probably my preferred look, but no camera that day.


I sewed this jacket for the pattern Review contest "Homage to my favourite designer".  I have copied my pattern review below, if anyone wants more of the sewing details.

I am submitting this jacket for the "Homage to my Favourite Designer". The designer element is this gorgeous stretch cotton sateen, from MillyNY, purchased through EmmaOneSock. It has been in my "good fabric" box, along with several other amazing Milly fabrics, for several years. 

I have pinned images of this same fabric made up by the designer as a dress and top. Whilst I admired the original designer garments, I thought it would make a stylish jacket.

Pattern Description: The pattern site describes this as a reverse revere jacket with sleeve head treatment. I wouldn't know what that meant if I did see the line drawing, but who am I to argue?

Pattern Sizing:I made Size 10.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?I supplemented the instructions with the Craftsy class "Mastering Construction: Facings and Linings" with Sara Alm.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like that the jacket does not have collar or closures. This makes easily worn as a casual jacket.

Fabric Used:Stretch cotton sateen by MillyNY, purchased from EmmaOneSock.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Fitting changes
- narrow chest alteration.
- took in the side seams at the bust and let them out at the hips.
- made the sleeves narrower.
- used a thinner shoulder pad rather than doing a square shoulder adjustment.

Pattern changes
- Added a CB seam and added some curvature to this seam.
- extended the lining on the welt pockets to create a deeper pocket.
- added extra interfacing, to the back hem and sleeve hems.
- Added 1/2" vertical ease to the lining pieces.
- Added ease to the sleeve and underarm of the lining, guided by Sara Alm's class.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?I like this jacket and can see myself making it again.

Conclusion: I'm really happy with how this turned out. It is always daunting cutting into the "good fabric" but the result is even better than I expected.

27.8.18

Not quite Stylearc Luna and Papercut SJ Tee

I am one of those people that only ever buys a metre of fabric, or maybe two, but never one of those people that buys 3m or 5 m on a whim.  Even this time, when I was sure that I had bought 3 m of this Milly stretch sateen, which should have been plenty to make a collarless jacket and cropped pants.  I must have only bought 2 1//2 m.  Once the jacket was made, I only had enough for a pair of shorts.  

I could have changed my plan, but I knew that I would never wear a matching skirt, and as I already had the Stylearc Luna stretch pant pattern cut out and alterations to the pattern made, I thought I would forge on ahead.  After reading Kristy's post on pants fitting, I was eager to try a different way of altering the Stylearc patterns to fit me, by using the method she described for a forward tilting pelvis.  I didn't make any other changes to the pattern.  

It is hard to tell in this fabric, and they have been shortened, but I think the alterations worked pretty well.  Enough that I will go and buy more of the Stylarc patterns that I have admired but thought would take too much work to get to fit.




I have paired the shorts with a tee based on the SJ Tee by Papercut patterns.  I have made this tee twice before.  The first time I made a medium, and the neckline was so huge that the tee was unwearable.  The second time I cut a small and added a really wide neckband, but the proportions and fit always felt a bit off.  This time I cut a medium, but added 2 inches height to the neckline all the way around, and added a hem band.  Finally, a version that I like.

19.8.18

Stylearc Erin Woven Culottes

I made these Stylearc Erin woven culottes a while back.  The fabric is a gorgeous, bouncy, textured melange fabric that I bought from Tessuti a while back.  They are a real black, more like the middle photo.  




14.8.18

Striped Linen Dress 2

What to do when you can't choose between two fabrics?  Buy them both.  Well, that's what I did when Tessuti listed some beautiful striped linens earlier this year.    This is the second dress I made.  The first is still unblogged.

My computer does not want to crop photos today, which makes it a little hard to see the detail.



I can't see this fabric on the Tessuti website anymore.  It is a gorgeous weight and feels so beautiful to wear.

The pattern is the Stylearc Vivienne Designer Frock.  

At first I was going to deliberately mismatch the stripes on the CF seam, but in the end I couldn't help myself and matched them everywhere. I even stripe matched my hem facings.  I cut the neck and armhole facings out of plain white fabric so that there would not be any show through of the stripes around the neck.

The main part of the dress is 1 piece, combined front and back, with no side seams.  First I cut out one side.  Then I sticky-taped the cut piece on my remaining fabric, matching all the stripes,  and cut out the second side.  This cutting technique turned out to be quite effective.





I left off the front welt pockets, as I did not want to interrupt the stripes.  This midi length always feels a bit awkward.


There are no side seams, which really limits fitting opportunities.  In the photo below, you can see that the side of the dress is cut on the straight grain.  Usually I take in the side seams at the bust level and let them out in the hip. The only fitting change I made to this dress was a narrow chest alteration.  I added tucks in the front and back shoulders to bring in the armhole shape on the shoulder.  It was just too sack like on me as originally designed.  I mean, it still is very sack like, but you know, there are sacks and there are sacks.


I'm not sure how I feel about the dress overall.  I imagine that if I owned a beach house that we spent the summers in, I would wear it all the time.  Outside of a summer house, it may look too much like a nightie, albeit, a gorgeous linen one.