7.2.16

Top with Gathered Yoke

I am trying to devote one (school) day a week to my pattern drafting.  I am always surprised at how many other activities are competing for my attention on that day.  I thought this gathered top onto a yoke would be a quick draft, but it was a little trickier than I anticipated to get it "just right".

The fabric is a cotton voile from Tessuti.


 
(Do you love my necklace?  My daughter and I had a fimo day recently, so I have a few necklaces in these colours now)




The biggest issue was getting the position of the yoke line right.  I originally wanted it a bit higher, but that lined the yoke seam up with the flat part of the armhole curve, which I thought would be a bit messy, sewing  wise.  I could have gone higher, but that would have left me with quite a skinny yoke, and I wanted a substantial yoke in case I decided to feature a different fabric for the yoke.  So I moved the yoke line down, below the armhole, but not as low as the bust point.



Then I thought it would be good if it matched the back yoke, but I knew I definitely wanted the back gathers higher up than my baby doll, for ease of movement across the back.  I could have curved the back yoke seam up, but decided that I wanted a horizontal seam, in case I wanted to put a lace yoke or similar in the back.  The curved seam will have to wait for another draft.

Here is my final draft (though I may need to address some teensy front neck gaping).


 I have been attempting to declutter lately, but here is a good reason not to throw out my fabric scraps.  I felt like the yoke needed a little stabilising.  A lightweight white fabric seemed to make the yoke look different from the body of the blouse.  I did not have a suitable nude fabric.  In the end I used a silk cotton woven in a tropical print.  An inside view is shown blow.  It seemed to blend with the voile enough not to result in show through to the outside.  I treated it as an interlining, rather than as a lined yoke, and still finished the edges of the armhole and neck with binding.






Fehr Trade Kimono Sweat

The Kimono Sweat by Fehr Trade has 2 tops in the one pattern, both of which I can show you today.

View B is a sleeveless tank with deep armholes.  I confess, I do not love the look of this top; however, it is a very practical garment for running in hot weather.  I do love my running tanks, but just sometimes, I do not wake up as early as I would like for my Sunday run and the sleeveless Kimono Sweat still protects my shoulders from the sun (by 6:30 am the sun is already beating down on us here at the moment).

This last week has been very hot, and Lincraft has their activewear fabric half price at the moment, so I quickly made up a fluoro version.  Some people in my household think I could have just gone and got myself a safety vest.



I can also show you my tester version of View A, which has short kimono sleeves.  I love, love, love View A of this pattern.  I can't find a good image for comparison, but it gives me the same vibe as some of the woven tops that Phoebe Philo has designed for Celine.   I think it would work out great made up in a chambray (only chambray is a terrible colour on me) or even an organza (the organza I put aside for this got snaffled up in my frenzy of summer swing tanks), but I haven't got beyond my imagination for these versions yet.  I can show you my tester version made up in fleece remnants.




Now, as a bonus, I can show you an unfinished version of a mash up of the Kimono Sweat with the Jasper Sweater from Paprika Patterns.  I just got too busy with with other stuff last year and did not get around to finishing this off...and the weather got hot and I didn't need it...and I can't decide what colour tabs to put at the neck. and whether to face or hem the sleeves.  This winter, I will finish it for sure.



(do you like the way it looks as though I am sprouting palm leaves from my head?)

1.2.16

Quilts 2015

I "fell into"  teaching quilting last year, so I made a few quilts to learn some techniques myself.

1.  Wonky Log Cabin

Front 



Back


Block


Close-up of back motif


Quilting - I quilting pictures into this quilt - snails, mushrooms, birds, frogs etc.  Hard to see but I thought would be fun to discover, if you were 5 and this was your quilt



 2.  Quick triangles baby quilt - The HSTs were made by sewing diagonally across 2 fat quarters facing together, for both diagonals and then cutting horizontally, vertically and diagonally to make 8 HSTs.


Oops, I can't find my photo of this one and now it is hanging up at work, so I will have to come back later and put it in.

3.  Half Square Triangles lap quilt - The HSTs were made by facing 2 squares together, sewing around all 4 sides of the square and then cutting diagonally in each direction.  The sides of the finished HSTs end up being on the bias.



I tried out some of the quilting stitches on my new machine for the quilting, but did not really like the effect.

 4.  Quilt as you go using scraps of 2 1/2 inch strips



 5.  Crazy 9 patch lap baby quilt



I quilted an all - over geometric design on this quilt.


I rounded the corners.

6.  Amy Butler In Stitches Doona Cover - ok, so not technically a quilt, but something that I have been wanting to make for a long time.  This looks much better in real life than these photographs suggest.  Definitely not as wrinkled as the photos.  The fabric is a cotton linen blend, which makes for a rather heavy doona cover.


7.  Improv log cabins.  This one has been in progress for about 3 years.  My daughter wanted a turquoise room and decided that this quilt would be a good match, so I got stuck in and finished it (well, almost finished...I still have to hand-stitch down the binding).



The entire quilt (front, back and bindings) is made from leftovers, either from other quilts, or bags or dressmaking.  For the back, I made some oversized blocks and joined them together.




This is the first time I have tried free motion quilting and I was very happy with the results.


8.  Ninja Quilt - This one was actually made this year, not 2015.  I quick quilt for my son's birthday.  I used the Lap of Luxe quilt as a guide, though my blocks are a bit bigger and I have an extra row of blocks.  I bought a fat quarter bundle of 16 fabrics and same yardage for the back and pale contrasts.  I had only ribbon scraps left over in the end.




I did make a quilt top for my bed, but I have not made  aback or sandwiched it yet, so that will have to wait for my next quilting round up post.

28.1.16

Scrap busting running singlets

I've had these running tops in mind for a while,  but Zoe's post on scrap busting being published as I was attempting to declutter my sewing room spurred me to action.

Top 1






 Top 2





Top 3







The fabrics were all from my scrap drawer, all lightweight and non-clingy.  There is a real mix of fibres...cotton, silk, polyester, mesh, bamboo.

The pattern is my own.  I started with one of my woven tank patterns, ignored the bust dart and used the side seam of the back piece to draw a new side seam for the front piece.  I then lowered the armhole and added some width to the side seam below the armhole to give a loose fit.

I didn't get too precious about the sewing, so in some places the binding is less than perfect and I think one of my seams ended up on the outside instead of the inside.  After looking at the photos, I think I need to adjust the tensions on my overlocker.  All the piecing was done on the overlocker.

I wore the first one for a run last night, and it went well.  The run was very hot and a loose tank over a sports bra is my preferred running attire for hot weather.

24.1.16

Lycra 2015

This is a round-up post of my unblogged lycra makes in 2015.

1.  Swimsuit for me


Pattern:  top - self-drafted, based on my sports bra pattern, which I originally traced off from a RTW bra.  I wanted the high neck and cut in shoulders which are very fashionable in swimwear at the moment.  bottoms - modified from a Patrones pattern, to give more bum coverage.

Fabric:  nylon lycra from stash (I forget the original source)

I was really happy with these, as I managed to achieve the look I was after.

2.  Jalie leggings



Pattern:  Jalie 3462, Cora running shorts
Fabric:  Titan lycra from funkifabrics

My sister made up this pattern and loved it.   For me, this project was a disaster from woe to go.  I was making these from leftovers, and struggling to cut all the pieces.  In the mean-time, I made up the sports bra listed below and discovered that it was way too small and that the titan lycra does not have the amount of stretch required for this Jalie pattern. This pattern has a fair amount of negative ease.  I then basted the main panels together and tried them on.  Negative ease may be all very well for people who have muscles to compress, but I have a little bit more than muscle and this amount of negative ease was not comfortable or flattering.  I added a 10 cm strip to the side of each leg and used this opportunity to add side pockets, which I prefer.  The leggings then sat on my sewing room floor for several months waiting for me to work out what size to cut the leg cuffs and waistband and whether or not I could cut them from my scraps.  I added wide elastic to the waistband instead of the narrow elastic specified by the pattern.  I do wear these but they don't feel great and the photos show that they do not fit my butt particularly well.  Not sure if I will try this pattern again in stretchier fabric.

3. Stylearc leggings




You would think that I have enough leggings patterns in my stash by now, but I liked the style details on these, so bought the pattern anyway.

These turned out ok.  After basting together the main pieces, I found that I did not have enough butt coverage.  I took out the pink back yoke and replaced it with a deeper yoke, grading back to the pattern at the side seams.  It would have been more flattering to add to the triangle fabric rather than the pink yoke, but I was fitting on the go.  I don't like my leggings to be too tight around the waist (belly ache), so I can't really use the back phone...the weight of my phone is enough to drag the leggings down whilst I run.

4. Boys swim trunks - I made 3 of these


Pattern:  Jalie 2563.  I have shown you this photo of my pattern modifications before.  I combine the main panels, cut off a crotch piece, add some volume to the crotch and cut it on the fold so that there is a triangular front crotch panel, which I line.


Fabric:  polyester lycra from funkifabrics

This is how the first pair started out.


This is how they ended up.  That is a rip in the fabric, not a tear along the seam line.  Lucky I lined them.  I think this happened whilst he was swimming breast-stroke.  For the second pair I tried to add more room at the crotch, but they ended up baggy and chafing.  For the third pair, I went back to the first pattern.


I'm not sure why this happened to the fabric.  My kids swim 3 - 4 times a week and this happened after about 3 months.

I keep on making them though, because he tells me that none of the RTW ones we own fit him properly (he is very slight).

5.  Girls swimsuit - I made 2 of these






Pattern:  Jalie 3134, with several panels combined.
Fabric:  this pair, polyester lycra from funki fabrics.  The previous pair were a combination of lycras from funkifabrics and spotlight.  The spotlight fabric wore out before the funki fabrics fabric.

The first pair were Sz O, which were too tight, and this  one is Sz P, with a lowered leg line, and the back modified to eliminate side back waist gaping.  It is a bit long in the body, so I cut the straps shorted, which pulls up the back a bit too much.  She finds these more comfortable than her speedos.

6. Gymnastics longs




Fabric:  polyester lycra from funkifabrics
Pattern:  Jalie 2914

7.  Sports bra



Pattern:  Jalie 3247
Fabric:  outer is funki fabrics titan lycra, inner is supplex.

Sadly, this bra is way too small for me.  Instant head ache when I put it on.  Jalie 3247 is much more compressive than Jalie 2563, which I have used successfully before.  I did not realise this, nor that my fabric did not have the recommended amount of stretch, when I cut this out.  My daughter is hoping that she fits into this soon.

8.  Girls sporty bikinis - I made 2 sets of these (1 for my niece)



Pattern:  top - Jalie 2564, modified to have cut on straps  , bottoms - copied from RTW.
Fabric:  polyester lycra from funki fabrics.

These have been a hit and have been worn all summer.