Jalie Helene Cardigan

A quick show-and-tell today.  This is the Jalie Helene Shawl Collar cardigan, made up in a micro-modal interlock rib featherweight knit from EmmaOneSock.  As previous reviewers have noted, the pockets are cleverly constructed to minimise sewing bulk.

It is a lovely cardigan to wear.  The fabric feels so soft that I used the leftovers to make singlets and undies.  I tried a couple of new patterns; the Style Arc Diana top, and the Megan Nielsen Acacia.  The Diana top has the neckline edges turned under, instead of bound, which is great if you are sewing from scraps and have limited yardage.  The V neckline was a tad too deep for me, but it will make a great singlet.  The Acacia is as comfortable as claimed.  Wins all around.


Vogue 1522 Flounce Sleeve Top

More sleeves!  Sleeves are having a bit of a fashion moment, so I guess now is not a bad time to start sewing garments with sleeves.  This time, I went with the flounce on Vogue 1522.  As far as flounces go, it is pretty understated.  Not too long, or crazy full, so definitely wearable (even for cooking dinner, as I found).

That said, I don't think I will be making this pattern again.  The lowish armhole combined with a narrow sleeve means that the whole shirt lifts up when I raise my arms.  I need to layer it over a singlet if I don't want to show too much skin.  In these next couple of photos, you can see how restrictive the arms are by the pulling across the blouse, even for minimal sort of arm movement.

The fabric is another viscose from Atelier Brunette.  This time I purchased it from an Australian supplier, Maai Design, which is good to know if you are in a hurry and don't want to wait for shipping from overseas.   


Stylearc Sadie

My next sleeved top is the Stylearc Sadie tunic.  Everybody chooses this pattern for its sleeve detail.  The twist in the sleeve gives the sleeve a fashionably full shape, without the gathering or elastic that usually accompanies a full sleeve.

Like other sewers before me, I shortened the tunic to hip length.

In this next photo you can see the shaped hemline. 

You can also see that the neckline is not sitting quite right.  I made a square shoulder adjustment and hollow chest adjustment.  I just guessed at the square shoulder, because the neckline is much wider than most bodice patterns and I was too lazy to get another pattern out to check how much I needed to add, and I did not get it quite square enough.  I always just guess at the hollow chest adjustment, because it is one I made up myself, but I should have taken a little bit more out of the front neck.  Another adjustment I would like to make next time is to add a little bit more width across the back.

This next photo is an odd photo to include, but it reminded me to talk about the back.  You can see that I did not include the back neck opening with button and loop, but I did keep the back seam.  In her drafting course, Suzy Furrer suggests keeping a CB seam when you can, to allow for back shaping, even in loosely fitted garments.  I added some back shaping to the CB seam.  You'll have to believe me when I say it allows for a nice drape, because none of my photos actually confirms this.

The fabric is another Atelier Brunette viscose crepe from Imagine Gnats.  This fabric is much celebrated amongst sewing bloggers.  It feels beautiful and has a lovely drape, but it does crush easily and needs to be pressed after washing.


Jalie Sweatshirts

My winter sewing is well and truly underway and being worn, even though it is not yet winter.  Needs must.  I have sewn a couple of Jalie sweatshirts to keep me snug.

The first one is from a Lillestoff French Terry from Zebra fabrics.  The ribbing is a cotton rib from Spotlight.  I went to Spotlight a few weeks ago to get some ribbing to finish off a hoodie for my son, and was pleasantly surprised by the selection of cotton ribbings, in both plain and stripes.  The pattern is Jalie 3355.  I made this first one according to the size chart (Size V).

My second sweatshirt is made using another terry from Zebra fabrics, purchased with matching ribbing.  This time I cut 2 sizes smaller (Size S), shortenedd the body by about 5 cm, and made the bottom rib band a bit looser.  I wanted to add the kangaroo pocket, but didn't have enough fabric after cutting a hooded vest out for my son from the same fabric.  

Happy Sewing xx


Stylearc Avery Tunic

I've never liked wearing garments with sleeves, and I have a lot of trouble fitting them.  I seem to need multiple alterations---square shoulders, forward shoulder, prominent front shoulder joint, skinny arms.  I have recently moved to a cooler climate, so I am going to have to suck it up and start sewing garments with sleeves.  I made it a bit easy this time around, choosing the Stylearc Avery Tunic, which utilises a knit fabric for the upper bodice and sleeves and a woven fabric for the main body.

The Stylearc line drawing shows contrasting fabrics, but I went with this matching terry knit and Atelier Brunette viscose crepe.  I can't remember where I got the terry from, but have already used it to make my daughter a dance sweater.  I got the viscose crepe from Imagine Gnats.  Imagine Gnats is my favourite place to shop when I am looking for fabrics for good quality basics.  I get so easily lured by fantastic prints, but if it is plains I want, I know I'll leave Imagine Gnats with what I wanted and not a basket filled with fabrics for fantasy clothes!  This crepe has a lovely drape, but it does crush terribly.

You can see the signature Stylearc hem detail.