Hudsons + Astair

I thought I'd test the French Navy Astair Tee and the True Bias Hudson Pant out by making pyjamas.

I made them in the summer and had to wait a few weeks until it was cool enough to wear them.  I forget where the t-shirt fabric is from, but it is quite a beefy cotton spandex.  The Hudsons are made from a beautiful quality cotton spandex knit from Fabulous Fabrics.  The striped cotton ribbing is from Spotlight, leftover from another project.

I sewed a double pocket, but I am thinking of removing it because the shirt is so comfy that I might wear it for everyday, not just pjs.

The method of adding the ribbing to the pocket was a new-to-me technique.  

Both patterns are winners, so I will be making more of them.


Jalie Coco Sport Bra

I get excited when Jalie launches their pattern collection each year.  Normally I select all the ones I want and get them all in one go to minimise shipping.  Shipping to Australia has been disrupted lately, so I decided to go ahead and download the pattern that I was most excited about, and I will order paper copies of the other patterns later.  First up is the Coco Sport Bra.

I've come to realise lately that my collection of Jalie patterns is under-utilised, largely due to sewing the wrong size first time around and not taking the time to sew a different size or make the necessary fitting changes.  This time I was determined to stick with the pattern until I got it right.

Version 1

My first version is made out of the merino scraps on my sewing table after sewing a bunch of merino tees and singlets.  I have read blog reviews of merino bras and been curious to try them, but not wanted to pay the RTW price tag.  I started with Size V.

I didn't have enough merino for the whole thing, so the straps are from a wicking sports fabric.

My cover-stitch machine struggled with all the layers to attach the band.

I have only worn this for one run so far.  The merino is more comfortable than I expected, but overall the bra is too big.  It might be good for hiking in cold weather.

Version 2

I went down a size to U for my second version.  The outer is supplex and the inner is a wicking cotton.  I have put an extra layer of power mesh in the front cups.  I used the same mesh for the inner centre front panel.

When I was trying this on, before adding the band, I decided that there was too much length in the bra overall.  Instead of cutting off this extra length, I decided to add the elastic directly to the bra and fold it to the inside, which you can see on the inside shots.  This elastic does not have as much give as regular elastic and has a fluffy side which sits against the skin.

This one is comfortable to wear but it feels like the straps are a bit long.  I am happy to finally have a bra to match my leggings in the same fabric, as sherbert orange / yellow / pink is more difficult to match that you might think.

Version 3.

For my third version, I removed 2 cm of length from the bottom of the pieces for size U.  I also removed 2 cm from the straps.  The outer is from supplex scraps and the inner from lightweight cotton knit.  Again, I put an extra layer of power mesh in the cups.

I skipped the coverstitch machine and used a zig-zag stitch on my regular machine to attach the band.

Here is a photo of the bra on me (sewing in my pjs!)

I wore this for a run this morning and it worked well.  I am unsure whether I should go down another size.  With the pools shut, I haven't been swimming for a while now, and I have lost a couple of cm circumference across my back, so I think that this will be the right size if I take up swimming again. 

For all of these, I used a narrow 6mm rubber elastic in the seams.  

I'm glad I took the time to play around with the fit of this bra, as it is a great pattern for using up scraps.


All the blue things

I had to make the most of the overlocker being threaded in blue after my recent projects.

First up, another pair of Trigg shorts in the leftover linen.  I think I am up to 7 times using this pattern now, so definitely a winner.

Then a Jalie 2805 t-shirt in the leftover Liberty jersey.  I'm sure this fits better in real life than the photo shows.  It has got cold here since I made this, so I have hardly had a chance to wear it, and then I got a quick photo snapped in the dying light one evening.  I went up several sizes in the t-shirt to get a looser fit than the pattern photo and I changed the V-neckline  to a scoop neckline.

When I was rummaging around looking for possible options for neck binding for the above t-shirt, I came across a Fehr Trade VNA top that I cut out of merino 6 years ago when I made one for a friend.  I obviously never got around to making up my own.  I didn't want to fuss with the corners  / binding, so I re-cut the armholes and neckline.  This is perfect for wearing under my new blue shirts.

 I was hoping to get a blue sports bra made whilst the blue thread was in the overlocker, but another project became more pressing.  I don't mind though, because since then, Jalie have released their new patterns and now I have a new sports bra pattern to try out.  Usually I buy a heap of Jalies when they are released, but I don't know how international shipping to Australia is working at the moment, so I have just bought the one pdf for now. 

Now my overlocker is threaded in red, and I am sewing all the red things. 

Happy sewing & stay well xx


Bobbely Watson bra and bikini set

In my parcel from Pitt Trading last week, I had a length of bobbely white lycra.  It is listed on their website as winter white textured spot lycra, and was described as suitable for swimwear and activewear.  At first I was dissapointed, as it was lighter and more sheer than I expected.  You would need a good lining to use this for swimwear!!  It does have a lovely feel though, so it only took me a day or so to adjust my plans and decide that it was perfect for lingerie.

I bought a metre, so I have enough fabric to make several sets.  First time around, I went with the Watson bra and bikini pattern by Cloth Habit.

For the bra, I used a lightweight mesh for the lining.  I also put in underwire casing at the underbust seam.  I have done this on other bralette patterns, but not on the Watson before.  I was a little worried about bulk at the centre V.  I sewed both the casing cups in one continuous length, then snipped the centre V and top-stitched from the right side.

This actually turned out neater than I expected.

I only had just enough strapping elastic.  I probably should have left off the bra sliders, as they have been slid to maximum strap length.

This is my fourth Watson bra.  My past 3 have been worn, but they have never been my favourites.  In the past, I always thought my fabric choices were too stretchy.  This fabric is not too stretchy, so I think it is actually a fitting thing.  I think I need to alter the bra cup seam shape a little.  I have plenty of this fabric, so I might try this in the same fabric again.


Stylearc Melody Tunic v2

When I was looking for all the blue fabric on the Tessuti site, I saw this just-in purply-blue check  linen

I have decided that my personal style is on the utilitarian side, and a linen over-shirt would be something that I would wear a lot.   I tweaked the Stylearc Melody tunic to get this look.

My changes included shortening the tunic by 5 cm, straightening the side seams (though I could have slimmed them a little more) and changing the back gathers to a tuck.  I also straightened the sleeves, eliminated the elastic gathering, sewed a deepish hem on the sleeves and then folded a tuck in the sleeve hem, to mimic the tuck in the back.

The result is just what I wanted.  I did iron this shirt earlier in the day, but there is a bit of a seersucker effect through the checks and it is more crinkly than other linens.  Lucky I am okay with that :)