11.2.18

Vogue 1247 (SBA in a dolman sleeved top)



When Vogue 1247 was first released, I admired the many beautiful versions that popped up on the blogs.  My sister gave me the pattern 7 years ago!! and it has taken until now to overcome my fear of the fitting changes I would required.  These fitting changes seemed to work, so I thought that I would share them here.

I started with a Size 14 and went about doing an SBA.  First off, I slashed the pattern 3 ways; from bust point to the shoulder point; from bust point to the waist seam; and from bust point through the bust dart at CF.


Instead of spreading apart (as you would do for a FBA), I overlapped the pieces.  I overlapped them enough to take out half the difference between my actual bust measurement and the stated Sz 14 bust measurement.


You could probably leave it at that, but I decided to straighten out the waist seam and add back in a CF bust dart.  I drew a horizontal line across the waist and extended the from seam down to this line.  I measured a difference of 4 cm between the original pattern and the new waist line.


I used my sloper to mark in my actual bust point.  Then I drew in a dart to the centre front, with an opening of 4 cm (to match the previous measured 4 cm).  I redrew the lower CF seam so that it was at least perpendicular to the waist seam.


In this next photo, you can see that I folded up the dart to true the edges of the pattern.


I added a bit of height to the low V front.


Here I am comparing the new pattern to the original pattern.  If you want to short cut this process, it looks like you can just take in the CF seam!


I then compared the waist length on the upper front with the lower front and folded out any discrepancy in length.


Here is the finished product.  It took me 3 hours to sew this up.  I know this, because I took this project when I went away for a gymnastics workshop for my son, and had 3 hours in the hotel room during the workshop.  Yes, I took my sewing machine with me!  I wanted to sew more than I wanted to sight-see or shop.

You can see that the bust dart hits in the right spot.  I could probably lower the neckline back to the original height on the pattern, but I am comfortably with it at this height.  The neckline does not fall off my shoulders.




I love the final product.  The fabric is a silk crepe de chine from EmmaOneSock, which sadly creases more than I would like.  The overall feel of the garment is slouchily elegant.  I meant to sew up a second one straight away, now that the pattern fits, but I actually made this a couple of months ago and have not made a second one yet.  There is one in my plan for the wardrobe contest currently on at PR.

7 comments:

Anonymous said...

I love this pattern. Your adjustments are spot on. And I totally understand sewing instead of sightseeing!

fabric epiphanies said...

Your adjustments look fantastic! I always loved the overall shape of this pattern but it was just too roomy for me.

Georgia said...

Beautiful! Love it! Thanks for showing your adjustments! Is the kind of think I need to do too sometimes!

Anonymous said...

Very nice top! Your adjustments look spot on!! I always had a soft spot for this pattern but when I made it some years ago (without carefully adjusting it like you did) it ended up not being very wearable as it was constantly riding back... Maybe I should revisit it..

poppykettle said...

Spot on adjustment - the end result is schmick as. And it looks great!!! I think you hit a great midpoint with the neckline height on this one too - it's really just a little too low as it is, I have a wear a singlet under mine to make it not ridiculous!

Audrey said...

I still haven't made this pattern. Afraid it would be too unstructured and overwhelm me. I love the perfect "slouchy elegant" fit you got with the SBA. And really pretty fabric too.

AllisonC said...

It looks fantastic - like you I have admired lots of versions out there, but have yet to attempt it myself - maybe this is the year!