Tailored skirt block & an A-line skirt
This skirt fits into the "simple style, gorgeous fabric" category. It is a 4-gored, A-line skirt made up in a Japanese cotton from Tessuti.
Originally, I was planning on generating the pattern using the Wild Ginger software program. I wanted to change the grain-line of the pattern and referred back to "Metric Pattern Cutting" by Winifred Aldrich. The skirt is cut with a CF and CB seam, with the grainline running down the centre of the panel, to give the skirt a better "hang". This is shown in the diagram below.
After reading through the chapter on skirts, I thought that their skirt block was different to the pattern that Wild Ginger was generating for me, so I decided to do a comparison of skirt blocks. This is what I found.
Comparing dart widths on different slopers
1. Wild ginger, my sloper, 4.8 cm back dart, 4.8 cm front dart
2. Winifred Aldrich, tailored skirt block, 4 cm back dart, 2 cm front dart
3. Helen Stanley, tailored skirt block, 6 cm back dart, 2.4 cm front dart
4. Vogue fitting shell (dress Sz 12), 4.8 cm back dart, 3.8 cm front dart
5. Vogue 1037, Badgley Mischka straight skirt, 3 cm back dart, 2.4 cm front dart (must be for small bums!)
6. My duct tape skirt sloper, 5.8 cm back dart, 2 cm front dart
The dart width does not change with size.
I have made a dress muslin using my Wild Ginger slopers. One of my problems is excess fabric at the front of the skirt. I don't know if the program can alter the width of the front dart, but I can't work out how to do it. I have used the Winifred Aldrich block, post pregnancy when I was a bigger size, and was happy with it. I want to move to computer aided design, but was not sure whether to use Winifred's block as-is, or modify it to accomodate the larger dart that I got developing a duct tape skirt sloper. After reviewing the photos of muslins made from my duct tape sloper, I can see that there is a problem in the back dart area, so first up, I went with Winifred's block as-is.
Now, because I wanted to sew a skirt quickly, and not mess about with muslins, I modified the block to an A-line skirt without making a straight skirt muslin...which is not too risky, given that I have used the block before (with a larger waist measurement) and I have done a lot of flat pattern measurement comparisons.
So a pretty simple pattern, but I think it fits well and it was satisfying to sew up a project in one day. I was tempted to add a hem band, but reminded myself that I am trying to "sew simple" for a bit.