6.8.19

Sewing Jeans 2019

I made a couple of pairs of jeans for a PR wardrobe competition earlier this year.   I had to make them in a fairly short time frame.  I wanted a skinnier leg than my previous pattern and I decided to try out the Megan Nielsen Ash Jeans rather than just make the legs on my usual pattern skinnier.

Well, that didn't work out for me.  I have read quite a few reviews for the Ash jeans, most of them glowing, but nobody else has mentioned that they felt weird and couldn't walk properly in theirs.  I didn't muslin the pattern, but I did use a fabric that I no longer loved, just in case.  I tried these on before attaching the waistband and was so disheartened that they sat crumpled up in a corner whilst I got on with something else.  Seriously, I couldn't walk in them.  After a couple of days I stopped sulking and sewed on the waistband, just to see if maybe that would miraculously fix the problem, but no go.  Here is what they look like.



Probably I should use a stripe if ever I decide to muslin jeans properly, because you can see all the weird things going on under my butt and down to my knees.


I didn't want to fall down a fitting rabbit hole because of the time constrains, so I then did a rub off a RTW pair of jeans by SABA.

I lay the MN Ash pattern on top of my rub-off, just to get an idea of what was wrong with the first pair.  At first glance, the patterns don't look so very different.


Then I slid the pattern around so that the centre front seam and crotch curve lined up.  This view suggests that the leg angle is very different and maybe that's why they felt so different to walk in.


Somehow, the height at the side seems similar at the front but nowhere near matches on at the back??


I made a dark navy pair and a green pair.   The green fabric is an enzyme washed denim and is beautifully soft.  These are the photos I submitted for the competition, but since then I have unpicked the crotch seam and shortened the front crotch and resewed them back together (yes, I unpicked top-stitching and overlocking and the seam, but it was worth it).


If I am going to use this pattern again, I should do adjustments for knock knees and full calves.  I have read alterations for these, but they don't feel like the right solution for me.  I feel like I need shaped seams rather than straight seams.  I want extra width at the calf without any more width at the ankle.



3 comments:

Soposie said...

Nice job on the final versions. I haven't personally tried making jeans as I don't wear them; I like my narrow-leg pants in knit/ponte, which is so much more forgiving.

But I seem to have many of the same fit issues with narrow-leg pants as you, so I'm always quite interested in what alterations you try and what works and what doesn't work. I thought I had it figured out for me - to change the angle of the leg coming down out of the hip (the difference between the rub off and the Megan Nielsen pants leg) plus scooping out the butt. I also have recently determined that I need a full calf adjustment on narrow-leg pants (on me, it looks like the front of the leg at the hem dips down substantially compared with the back hem).

But the effect of changing the leg angle on the pants on you is exactly the opposite of what I would have expected; I would have thought that the angle on the MN pants would have fit better, not worse. Then I Googled knock-knee adjustment and went down a rabbit hole and now have a new idea to address this issue in my next pair of pants (the Minott method). As an aside, I don't think it's actually knock-knees, but wide hips in relation to knees/lower legs that are closer together (but not knocked). I learn something new every day!

So anyways, it's interesting to see pant fit posts from other people. Thanks for sharing the information!

Tropical Threads said...

The difference between the two patterns is fascinating! I should try it some day, between trouser that fit or don't really fit.

I'm not a jeans girl. Too hot. Unless I'm travelling. I made myself a pair of Jalie Eleonore jeans and they're ok. Ok enough for travel.

Anyway LOVE the rtw knockoffs especially given you shortened the front crotch seam.

katherine h said...

No, I never wore jeans until I moved south either, unless, like you, I was on holiday. I still don't love them, and only wear them out, not at home. I have bought the Elenore recently, but have not tried it yet.