After writing up my previous post, and reading the draping discussion at Pattern Review, I got to wondering if perhaps I could drape a pair of jeans to fit me.
I had a large piece of denim scrap, so this is how I set about finding out
- I drew horizontal lines across the fabric, at 5 cm increments
- I sewed the fabric into a tube and slid the tube up my leg, and used a band of elastic to keep it up.
- I pinned in the shape of the leg, doing my best to keep the marked lines horizontal
- I pinned in a side dart, which would later become the side seam
- I pinned out a back dart, which would later become a yoke
- I marked the CF and CB seams
- I folded over the top edge at the height I wanted the waistband.
This is what I got. The fit is a bit loose at the front, as I did the draping at night, when my belly is often bloated, and I took these photos in the morning, when everything is flat again :)
The above photo shows that the horizontal lines are going skewiff at the upper back thigh. I tried to mark in a better crotch curve, by standing in the position shown in the photo below. This draping is not glamorous!
I then cut up the seam lines and laid out my pieces. I promised myself that I would not compare these to an actual pattern until I was completely finished. You can see that the back crotch curve is a little unusual. The legs are also curvy, which is not typical of patterns I have bought.
I marked off a waistband.
I marked off a back yoke. It does not go as deep as the dart, because I do want them to look like regular jeans and also so that a pocket can fit below the yoke. The bottom edge of this yoke is curved, but I might go back and make it straight.
I then marked the same horizontal lines on my next piece of fabric. I was hesitant about cutting into new fabric, but when I unfolded the fabric from my stash, I found that it has discoloured anyway.
I laid my "pattern" on the fabric, matching the horizontal lines. The pattern does not sit exactly flat. I decided to follow the lines rather than have the pattern flat, in case the fabric had distorted during my process.
I then sewed up a quick and dirty muslin. Here they are without a waistband (or fly or pockets).
I did have to take in the side seams in several places, and I raised the crotch seam by about 15 mm.
They are not perfect, but they don't have the horizontal wrinkle under the bum that I usually have. Is it even possible to get rid of wrinkles at the back knees? I never notice knee wrinkles on other people. Is that because they are not there or just because I don't notice?
I don't know whether to continue on to make a pattern and another pair. I don't need any more jeans at the moment, but it is always good to have patterns that fit.
What do you think? Are these worthy of a pattern? Also, if you have any tips for further improvements, please shout out!