The Allegra Leotard from Ainsliewear has been in my leotard pinterest page for a while. When Jalie released their Violeta pattern earlier this year, I thought it would be the perfect base to re-create this look.
This is the result. This was the first time I used this pattern, and there are some fitting issues that need to be resolved. Usually, I take a wedge out at the back waist to minimise gaping, but I forgot to do that this time. I did do my other typical fitting changes of reducing the waist shaping and grading to a smaller size in the chest.
I only changed the back pattern pieces for the style changes. As you can see in the photo below, I traced the upper back piece, and again mirrored, and folded out the seam allowance to create a cross-over back. I then drew in the style lines for the mesh section. I used this pattern to add the correct shape to the bottom piece. The tricky bit was adding the seam allowances. It would have been easier if I removed the seam allowances from the original pattern, made my changes and then added them back in.
This is what my final pattern pieces looked like.
Originally, I encased elastic in the edges and straps, but this distorted the mesh panels too much, so I unpicked it all, and redid it just in lycra. I moved the position of the straps at the request of my dancer, and then had to add an extra cross strap because of the gaping at the back. I'll have to remember to make that back gaping fit change next time I use this pattern!
This is what the front looks like.