15.6.16

Jeans No. 3 and a fitting revelation

A couple of years ago I made some purple jeans.  That weren't very comfortable, so I stopped wearing them, but really missed that purple addition to my wardrobe.  I bought the denim for these jeans as a replacement.  It is a cotton / poly / spandex blend which does not distress that well, so no distressing on these.



These are made to the same pattern as the previous pair, only in a stretchier denim.  At first I added extra to the crotch extensions, but I had to take it all back out again.  This goes to show that I really should quantify stretchiness, rather than just tug on the fabric and go "that feels about right"!


I only had one reel of top stitching thread in this colour, so I mostly went with just one row of top-stitching.  In place where I wanted 2 rows, I copied some other jeans I have and used a matching blue / purple thread for the second row.



 In this back shot, you can see my groovy top stitching.  You can probably also see a dirty great big tuck running  across the upper back thigh to the crotch.  I have just basted this in as an experiment.

I recently had a weekend away, and took jeans No. 4 (not yet blogged) with me.  The wrinkle under my butt kept annoying me and I found myself constantly feeling for it whilst waiting around in airports etc, which would have looked rather odd if anybody were watching.  I realised that the wrinkle went from my outer thigh to the crotch.  When I got home, I folded this wrinkle into my pattern to confirm my inklings...which is that taking this tuck alters the angle of the CB seam.  So it is not the crotch curve that I need to play around with, but the angle of the CB back seam.  This makes sense to me, as my RTW do not have scooped out crotches and they seem to fit fine.


Before making up a new pattern, I tested my theory by sewing this tuck into jeans 3 & 4.  The jeans feel more "right" now, with the added bonus that they stay up better.  Before, I was often hitching them up at the back.  After this quick and dirty alteration, I was able to hang out 2 baskets of washing (lots of bending as I don't have a trolley for the basket) without needing to hitch them up once.

I only wish I had figured this out after my initial muslin and not 5 pairs later.

BTW the t-shirt I am wearing for these photos is RTW, but I did the tie dyeing on it as a holiday activity with my kids, and was pretty happy with the result.

4 comments:

  1. Great experiment! I figured out something similar by a more circular route, after I'd nearly gone mad with scooping and resewing over and over. I traced the curve on a pair of jeans (Uniqlo) that fit me reasonably well. The back 'curve' turned out to be fairly straight, and I figured out that it serves to shorten the seam length - thereby 'deleting' that extra fabric in the right place for me - the top of the back thigh/lower butt area. I'm still trying to figure out how to get the best fit at the back waistband, but I suspect that you are right about the angle of that seam being important.

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  2. I have been experimenting as well and have discovered that the back of my favourite Levis has similar lines to the front unlike the Ginger pattern which is completely different. I intend to try to copy my Levis next.

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  3. I admire people who battle away to make the perfect pair of jeans. I aspire to make jeans, but inevitably find a great fitting pair at Vinnies for $9 and don't go through the pain. One day!

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    1. Actually, I have some Tommy Hilfiger flared jeans that I picked up from Vinnies a few years ago...especially great now that flares are back. I don't seem to have so much luck with Vinnies lately...not didcated enough...I think other pick must snap up all the good gear before I get there.

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