Dress with neckline pleats

Another dress!  I will have a wardrobe full of dresses by the time I have completed this craftsy course.  This time, the bust and waist darts were moved around to form neckline pleats.

Actually, the lesson was for neckline gathers, but I thought this fabric would work better with pleats. 

My narrowest point is a couple of inches above my waist.  On this dress, I did not follow the side curve so closely, as it doesn't always sit so well (feels like the side seam should be clipped), but, after wearing the dress for a bit,  I think I do need to take it in a bit more at the bodice side seams.  I have noticed on several of the Donna Karan for Vogue patterns over the years that she often has a triangular piece at the bottom of the bodice waist, which would allow me to get a better fit there...I will try that idea out in a later rendition.

For the skirt, I followed another lesson to draft a tulip skirt, only I used 3 pleats instead of 1 large pleat, to mimic the neckline pleats. 

Initially, I wanted a fully pleated skirt; however, the fabric print had large white areas that I did not want to use, which left me a bit short on fabric.  The tulip skirt has a plain back.  The bottom of the skirt is pegged by 1" on each side.

The back bodice has a scooped out neckline.   There is an invisible zipper at the CB.   I added a cap sleeve.  I have not done the drafting course on sleeves yet, so I borrowed a sleeve from Vogue 8552.  I did a little bit of print matching, by following the horizontal lines of the brush strokes in the print from front to back.

The fabric is a stretch cotton sateen from Emmaonesock.


  1. Oh this is really gorgeous. I love it. I think it was a good call pleating the bodice and skirt. I think those colours are perfect for you. What a great fit.

    I do love the courses too, though I'm not doing them in sequence, I mean to use most of the techniques shown at some point.

  3. wow - that dress is stunning and I love the scooped back. You seem to be getting great value our of you course.

  4. Lovely dress. I like the back too and the fabric is beautiful.

  5. Very pretty and flattering. The pleats and scooped back are gorgeous!

  6. Ooh, this is my favorite self-drafted project so far! The fabric and design are such a good match. It actually reminds me of some of those lovely Donna Karan / DKNY dress patterns.

    1. Well, I have taken inspiration from my stash of Vogue patterns. I have a whole collection of Kay Unger patterns, but I am thinking it may be easier to draft the features I like than to get a pattern to fit. I find it so hard to fit myself.

  7. It really suits you. I'm loving the scooped back too. (Now let's see if I can get this commenting business to work...) E x

  8. A really lovely dress. Love dresses in the wardrobe so easy to throw on and go.