Sports Bra

Some days, I am never sure what I am going to sew.  This weekend, I was planning on sewing up a blouse muslin.  Before I got started, I was looking up some exercise gear ready for a trip out of town this week (shopping opportunity!).  Then I realised that I actually like sewing exercise clothing, only sourcing fabric is a real limitation.  Then I was sending an email away for samples from eclipse textiles.  Then I was just having a quick look at the instructions for drafting a sports bra.  5 hours later and I had a pattern drafted (it was a little tricky).  Next day, I was sewing up a sample.  And here we are, no blouse muslin, but a sports bra sample.

The pattern is for an encapsulation style sports bra.  I have only worn compression-style sports bras before so I don't know how this compares to RTW.  It is very comfortable, but I'm not sure if it is supportive enough.  That may be due to fabric choice and notions.  I made this up out of a remnant knit (it is on the thicker side...I originally used it to make pants) and some fold-over elastic.  The straps and hooks were purloined from an old bra yonks ago.  The hooks are not sewn on properly yet as I need to unpick them properly and reattach.  I think I need to unpick the elastic strap and shorten it as well. I haven't top-stitched the seams as this was only a test run.

The pattern drafting instructions are from Kristina Shin's "Patternmaking for Underwear Design".

Construction wise, there are some parts about this that I am not certain about.    The bottom edges have a 6 mm seam allowance. Looking at the technical drawings, it looks as though the back has elastic sewn along the bottom edge, but I can't see a stitching line for the elastic on the front.  The drawing suggests that the bottom edge of the front is straight, when it is actually curved.  I am used to wider elastics being used along the bottom of sports bras.

 During the drafting, it points out a trimming tape used to connect the underband and the cups.  This extra line did make the following drafting steps a little confusing, and I'm not sure how this is applied construction-wise.

The underband and straps are lined with foam.  I did not do this on my sample. 

Some of the stated seam allowances are 3mm.  I wonder what machine they used for this.  Perhaps I should use the narrow 3-thread stitch on my overlocker?

 Lots of curved seams...accurate cutting and stitching required!  I basted the pieces together before overlocking.  I do not have a great overlocker.  One day I hope to own a better one.

I think I have the supplies to sew up a red version, if I make my own binding using my coverstitch machine. When I do, I''l let you know how supportive it is.  Some changes for the next version...move the straps in a bit and possibly reduce the cup size a little.

In the meantime, I have to get on with that blouse muslin as my sister is taking me to her sewing class and her teacher is a real fitting wizz...I'm hoping to get help fitting a blouse muslin and perhaps a chanel jacket muslin.