26.6.13

Spanish Snap Buttonholes



I am working on a Chanel-inspired jacket, and am auditioning buttonholes.  I've never actually sewn anything other than a regular box buttonhole using my sewing machine.  The chances of me ever hand-working a buttonhole are pretty much zilcho.  I could try a bound buttonhole, but tweed fabric seems a little bit fussy for my first ever bound buttonholes.  I tried sewing a "Spanish Snap Buttonhole", following the instructions in Roberta Carr's "Couture the Art of Fine Sewing", as shown in the photographs above.  What do you think?  There seems to be a bit of a gap for the buttonhole opening.  The top two were made using a poplin for the backing fabric and the bottom one using a thicker wool, though I don't have any of that in black.

5 comments:

  1. I had never heard of Spanish buttonholes until the Sydney Sewers High Tea and Francis had a gorgeous jacket with these buttonholes. I didn't get to inspect them too closely but they look at less bulky than a bound buttonhole. I like the look of the bottom one using the thicker wool, but I suppose it all depends on the width/depth of your button.

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  2. I'd love to see your version of a Chanel! I like the look of the top right one. It's hard to figure out what works with bulky fabrics, I know. Another option to try might be this method Sherry did here - http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.co.nz/2011/09/bound-buttonholes-some-refinements.html. I auditioned about 7 different buttonholes for a cashmere cape last winter. Finally went with this one using silk charmeuse (my lining fabric) as the buttonhole "welts" and I was really pleased. I *think* interfaced the charmeuse for a bit of crispness.

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    1. Thanks for the link Amy! I like the idea of using charmeuse for the welts. Will try that today.

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  3. Huh, I've never tried any hand-done buttonholes, either. I have a vintage costume drafting book which shows oodles of stitches for doing buttonholes. That's one of those thing I'll do in my "someday" category!

    I like the one on the top right, too. It's elliptical (eye?) shape looks sharp.

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  4. Fascinating! I haven't heard of this type of buttonhole before. 2 years ago, I wasn't even aware there were TYPES of buttonholes. My oh my. I'm looking forward to seeing how this jacket of yours turns out! :)

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