23.8.12

Demitards

Candy pink velvet lycra!  Purple and silver glittery swirls!  It's dance costume time again.

Last time I mentioned costumes, some of you asked to see the finished costumes.  I rarely take photos of the costumes, as for the most part, I am just the seamstress and I don't feel that they are my property to post publicly.  I also don't want to go through the process of getting permission to post photographs of other people.  The ones or bits that I do post are costumes where I have had a lot of input into the design / pattern, like this next one. 

I was asked to make demitards.  When I have sewn demitards in the past for this dance school, I have used a style that has a single pattern piece, wrapping around from front to back, with a CB seam and a crotch seam.  The little girls that I was sewing for this time had hip measurements that were larger than their chests, and I wasn't happy with the one piece pattern, so I decided to draft my own, starting with Stuart's blocks

My design has side seams., CF seams and a CB seam, allowing for a better fit than the one piece pattern.  Pattern details include camisole style top, back cutout, CF gathering on some versions.  After measuring the class, I used a smaller size for the top half of the demitard than the bottom half.  I graded the pattern into 5 sizes.  I gave my coverstitch machine a good work out.

The pink version was for the dance school.  The pink straps have not been attached as I fit them to each child individually.  The purple version was made up as a gymnastics leotard for the daughter of a friend.









8 comments:

  1. I am SO impressed that you make a class' worth of costumes! They look terrific - my girls would love them.

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  2. These are a very cute style. I imagine the extra seams do make the fit better.

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  3. Very nice! How many of these did you make? (And where did you buy that purple swirly lycra? It'd make some flash running leggings is all!)

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    1. It is from Spotlight...a chain store in Australia. The fabric line is called Dance Coordinates, I think.

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  4. You really are a master of knits. You can can sew any kind of knit, even purple swirly lycra, and it always looks so professional!

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  5. Hi Katherine,

    Would you please be able to share your cover stitch method? Tension for needles and looper, stitch length, diff feed, thread and needle type etc? I keep getting skipped stitches when I try to stitch the elastic down. Hope you can help!

    Thanks

    Claire

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    1. Hi Claire,

      I have fluffy thread in my lower looper and I have only got that to work by setting the lower looper tension to zero. The other threads are set at a tension of 4 - 5.

      Stich length of 3.

      Diff feed is at 1 at the moment, but I know that I have turned it down to 0.7 for some fabrics.

      I am using QA thread.

      The needles depend on your machine. I think mine takes regular needles, but my previous coverstitch (a Bernette) had a lot of trouble with skipped stitches and it was recommended that I switch to an ELX705 needle, which I think is a midge longer than the needles I was using.

      Some types of elastic are more trouble than others. I mostly use the rubber elastic these days, because I bought it in bulk. I often use my sewing machine to zig zag the elastic down if it is not working out on the coverstitch.

      I like my coverstitch best for hems and bindings, but these days I use my sewing mchine as often as not for the elastic.

      Hope this helps, Katherine

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