I have been playing around with drafting my own bra patterns from scratch. This necessitates a lot of testing. I was finding it hard to assess the fit of the cups without making the complete bra, which was time consuming. I also didn't want to deplete all my bra-making supplies. This is my new approach:
Cut out the cup pieces and the bra cradle in a woven fabric. Stitch the cups pieces together and then stitch the completed cups into the cradle.
Outside view
Inside view
Then I stitch down the seam allowance between the cups and the cradle. The seam allowance is only 6 mm wide. I can stitch the seam allowances down to form a channel that is 3 - 4 mm wide. This is wide enough to slip in the bra wires, without having to sew on a separate wire casing.
I can then use one hand to hold the wire beneath my breast and the other can hold the strap position. The wire helps hold the cups to my body and I can get a good idea of fit. It only takes about 10 minutes to cut out and sew up and I have used precious few materials.
7 comments:
You are so clever. I really do need to give bra making a go.
I really would like to learn bra making. Cotton bras would be a blessing in your climate and very hard to buy now.
This looks and sounds tricky, even if you say it can be done quickly and successfully! Best of luck to you with drafting your own patterns, I'm sure you'll make it work!
Great idea! Fitting a bra is a challenge, I'm finding (now that I'm working on a sewn cup pattern) so your working shortcut is going to be very helpful!
Have fun with the bra-making! I have used a similar technique for tester cups. I,too, loved the cotton cups cut on the bias for the best fit and comfort. I used patterns and also drafted my own - they were may favorite bras. I started with Lee Ann Burgess' book "Making Beautiful Bras" technique using paper surgical tape mold of breast - what did you use for drafting?
I admire your adventurous spirit when it comes to giving any kind of sewing challenge a go! The perfect fitting bra with pretty lace would be a very satisfying sewing stunt to pull off.
thank you so much Katherine....I ended up making 3 of your tester cups before i got to the right size. Without your tip, i would have wasted a lot of time, good fabric and have 2 x too small and useless bras. Much appreciated advice :)
Post a Comment