14.12.10

Doily Tank and Marfy Pants 2

I'm still making tank tops.  I have 2 pieces of fabric to make summer tanks, but I am not 100% happy with my pattern, so I am just toiling / toile-ing away.  On my mesh tank, I wasn't happy with the armhole bindings, but I didn't know if it was the mesh that was the problem.  Turns out it wasn't; I need a tighter binding on the armholes than the neck (or maybe the neck edge is not so critical?).


The fabric is from my stash and the doily is from my local Vinnies.  This tank will be worn as a PJ top with some PJ pants I made last summer out of shirting fabric from Tessuti.

Today I continued with the Marfy pants.  Thanks for all your (unanimous!) input.  I will go with the silver buckle and white buttons.  I will use my bodgy silver buckle for now, but keep an eye out for a nicer one to replace it.  Jenny asked about the pattern number.  It is 1666.  It is not from the current catalogue.  I am making Sz 46.

First up, the back pocket.  This was constructed as a jetted pocket, using a method outlined by Martyn Smith in Australian Stitches.  I'm not sure of the difference between jetted pockets and double welt pockets.  In this method, the jets are folded over the seam allowance, so that the seam allowance stays in the marked box; whereas in welt pockets the seam allowance is folded out of the way with the welt seam allowances.  This pocket opening was shown as curved on the Marfy pattern.  I toyed with idea of cutting the jets on the bias, but decided that there would be enough give in the twill fabric for such a shallow curve.  I chose to line the yoke facings with nude lining, but I should have lined the front yokes with nude lining, so that none of the yoke seam allowances would show.  The pocket bag was sewn with French seams.



I sewed the front pocket as a welt pocket.  The pattern showed a curved opening but I made mine straight.  I have never sewn a proper welt pocket before, and I didn't practice one when I was practising pockets, but today I was feeling a little bit brave (now I am feeling like the Gruffalo's child...who was feeling a little bit brave and a little bit bored whilst the Gruffolo snored and snored...).  I used the method demonstrated by Kathleen at Fashion Incubator.  It was a bit more stressful than the window-pane method or jetted pockets, but it worked out okay.  There are a few puckers in the corners, but that is because I could not see the white stitching on white fabric particularly well and I was a bit conservative when cutting (and the Gruffalo's child did scurry on home at the end of the story).


This time I lined the yoke with nude lining.  I did not have any nude binding tape, so I just folded the lining edges of the pocket over the fabric edges.


Whilst these photos were loading, I basted together the side seams and tried them on.  Actually I tried them on with about 15 tops.  I never can wait until the sewing is finished before I am trying things out.  I am pretty happy with them, but there is still a bit to go...side seams tweaked, yoke facings, hems, buttons and buckle.

5 comments:

  1. I can't find the pattern online anywhere (sad) but your pants are looking great! I like Marfys for their stylish details and great fit, but they're just a lot more expensive than other patterns I can get, so I only have a few patterns. Can't wait to see the fit and the buttons you choose!

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  2. I LOVE the doily top - in fact I was thinking of doing something similar myself, only I have to be careful how much detail I add to an already "busy" area!

    The pockets are looking good, the tab is great idea otherwise they'll gape after construction - I love the shape of that tab. Yes, you do have to be brave to cut right into the corner to avoid the pucker, but it's a fine line between pucker and fray so knowing when to stop is the most delicate of things.

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  3. I'm so impressed with your pockets! I'm also envious that you are wearing tank tops right now.

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  4. Very impressed with that welt pocket and tab.

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  5. Thankyou so much for your detailed answer. The marfy patterns do sound very expensive, but I think I will investigate further!
    You pants are so beautifully finished, I'm sure they will be totally amazing. I love the shape of those jet tabs.

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