tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7351864927910092883.post5016340863299617620..comments2024-01-10T21:56:54.168-08:00Comments on Bloom's Endless Summer: Knit Sloperkatherine hhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17314030133556269765noreply@blogger.comBlogger16125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7351864927910092883.post-59727827616480158612016-06-22T08:28:59.873-07:002016-06-22T08:28:59.873-07:00Hi Katherine. I FINALLY just posted the striped kn...Hi Katherine. I FINALLY just posted the striped knit top in the sloper class (posted as Jojovan). Sorry for taking so long, I'm away from home a lot. You can now appreciate why I could never have a blog. It would take me forever to get anything posted!Jojohttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00788248606424474216noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7351864927910092883.post-44010543127520140012016-05-16T18:07:44.746-07:002016-05-16T18:07:44.746-07:00Thanks SewRuthie. Do you mean a horizontal or ver...Thanks SewRuthie. Do you mean a horizontal or vertical wedge? Thanks, Kkatherine hhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17314030133556269765noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7351864927910092883.post-37832208045990245802016-05-16T18:06:07.275-07:002016-05-16T18:06:07.275-07:00Hi Jojo, starting a blog is easy and free! If you...Hi Jojo, starting a blog is easy and free! If you don't want to do that, have you posted your progress to the class projects? I went and had a look to see if your striped knit sloper was there but I couldn't see it. I love seeing what everybody else is doing...it is both inspiring and motivating.katherine hhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17314030133556269765noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7351864927910092883.post-62745267045894031482016-05-15T08:02:42.219-07:002016-05-15T08:02:42.219-07:00Oops, just reread your post and noticed you mentio...Oops, just reread your post and noticed you mentioning moving the front vertical seam over......Jojohttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00788248606424474216noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7351864927910092883.post-19518742945123067392016-05-15T07:56:50.694-07:002016-05-15T07:56:50.694-07:00One more thing. If I may be presumptuous to commen...One more thing. If I may be presumptuous to comment on the design, my feeling is that the front off-center seam is not far enough to the side so that one kinda wonders whether it's supposed to be in the centre and it missed, or whether it's supposed to be away from the middle. It's a lovely design though. You make me want to pull out my pencils and try drafting like you. I worked hard on my slopers but am not using them to design like you. You're quite the motivator!Jojohttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00788248606424474216noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7351864927910092883.post-41468310780717036742016-05-15T07:46:42.044-07:002016-05-15T07:46:42.044-07:00Katherine,
I suspect the back issues are due to ...Katherine, <br /><br />I suspect the back issues are due to a combination of 1) a swayback needed and 2) the fabric does not quite have the stretch needed to hug the curves in your back so the back needs to be a little looser.<br /><br />I went back to my notes for the top I made using Suzy's knit sloper because I DID use a striped fabric so her curved hem would not have worked for me either. I'm including them here in case they give you an idea of something you might try.<br />1) Because the material was not super stretchy (similar to a ponte), I added ease to Suzy's knit sloper at the waist and hips so the top would skim my back and not hug the indent at the waist. What if you did this to the back of your dress? (try ripping at the side seams and see what happens)<br />2) I straightened the bottom hem of the top I made to get rid of the curve as the fabric I was using was striped. To account for the length added at the side hems (basically the width of the dart which had been removed), I lowered the front underarm by 1/2 of the dart amount and raised the back underarm by the same amount. It worked as I don't feel any discomfort when wearing the top. (For your reference, my dart measures 1 1/4")<br /><br />Yes, like you I wish I could go to a class to see how others solve fitting problems. On the other hand, the cost of real classes would be so much more expensive than the sale price I paid for Suzy's drafting classes and I was able to work on the classes on my schedule rather than on an imposed one. Unfortunately, I don't have a blog where I can share my progress......Jojohttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00788248606424474216noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7351864927910092883.post-73362581145708508032016-05-15T07:01:24.466-07:002016-05-15T07:01:24.466-07:00I think the fit looks perfect through the shoulder...I think the fit looks perfect through the shoulders and armholes, and the design with the gathers in the front reminds me of one of the Vogue designer patterns from a year or so ago - maybe one of the Kay Unger designs? And I agree it looks like there's too much length in the back but I don't have the knowledge to help at all, sorry! Good luck, it looks like you are incredibly close to perfecting your knit sloper! Gabriellehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06178734550537562868noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7351864927910092883.post-89362503067201437302016-05-15T06:22:58.448-07:002016-05-15T06:22:58.448-07:00Duh, I meant to explain I said all that because yo...Duh, I meant to explain I said all that because your wrinkles don't look just at the waist, the extend up a bit higher.Tropical Threadshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10577923650038624948noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7351864927910092883.post-83579302162241825892016-05-15T06:06:06.321-07:002016-05-15T06:06:06.321-07:00I've experimented on trying to eliminate back ...I've experimented on trying to eliminate back wrinkles a lot. Most of my understanding comes from Sherry's post the previous commenter linked to. <br /><br />My input into the back is I take out wedge shapes as SewRuthie described, but not just at the waist. I take othem from the centre back narrowing to nothing at the side seam, across about where my bra is, then a bit lower, then right on the waist including some of the 'skirt' part of the pattern where it looks like there is excess there too. If I only take it out at the waist it throws excess to under the bra area and makes it too short round the waist.<br /><br />It's quite interesting to take a look at the change in shape of the overall back piece with these wedges taken out. It basically makes less shaping in the back side seam compared to the front. But it sews up just fine and fits better. I presume I'm less curvy at my back than front? Or maybe fuller at the back hip than front so that extra fabric might be needed to cover that fullness? Dunno! Would like to know! But as you say, fitting on your own is very hard and frustrating.Tropical Threadshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10577923650038624948noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7351864927910092883.post-88688275400498233502016-05-15T03:38:42.659-07:002016-05-15T03:38:42.659-07:00I think the wrinkles at the back require a swaybac...I think the wrinkles at the back require a swayback solution. A good explanation and solution can be found at http://byhandlondon.com/blogs/sew-alongs/16990652-kim-dress-sewalong-alterations-swayback-adjustment.<br />Keep up the pattern making - it is very rewarding and I love your dress design. Gailhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00622769905155059570noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7351864927910092883.post-48915966953329749492016-05-14T18:11:45.441-07:002016-05-14T18:11:45.441-07:00Hi Jojo, so pleased that your knit sloper worked o...Hi Jojo, so pleased that your knit sloper worked out. I wish I could go to a real class with real people and see everybody's progress and the changes that need to make...this would be so much better than working on my own and just seeing other people through a computer. Like one of our classmates, I did not want the bust dart moved to the hem, leaving a curved hem...not that I work with stripes much, but I wanted another way around this. When I sewed the waist shaping in this fabric, I felt like the whole garment was pulling down on my shoulders...but it would probably work out better in a different fabric, so I have left the waist shaping lines on my sloper to remind me that I can do this in other fabrics (though, now that I think about it, I maybe should have done it in the back, if not the front??). Thanks for the link to Sherry's swayback adjustments...she has lots of good info there. Happy sewing, Katherinekatherine hhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17314030133556269765noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7351864927910092883.post-75225873999449385602016-05-14T18:05:20.941-07:002016-05-14T18:05:20.941-07:00I remember this now that you mention it. There wa...I remember this now that you mention it. There was so much good info on that site.katherine hhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17314030133556269765noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7351864927910092883.post-14467931234437946342016-05-14T14:40:12.370-07:002016-05-14T14:40:12.370-07:00Hmmm, I took the Craftsy class (which is why I enj...Hmmm, I took the Craftsy class (which is why I enjoy reading your posts) and was VERY pleased with my knit sloper using the Furrer method. Because my fabric had no vertical/lengthwise stretch, I left ease at 0%. My fabric was similar to a ponte, so I set widthwise ease at 0% (basically removing the ease from my drafted sloper). As for transferring the waist shaping to the shoulder (which I did), my understanding is that this is basically a swayback adjustment so this would help remove some of that excess fabric in your back. I have come to this conclusion based on a lengthy analysis of the swayback adjust published on the website Fabricscissorscloth here: https://patternscissorscloth.com/2010/12/05/sway-back-alterations-my-analysis/Jojohttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00788248606424474216noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7351864927910092883.post-22715892380656463562016-05-13T15:50:40.910-07:002016-05-13T15:50:40.910-07:00As for the back wrinkles... maybe Clio's solut...As for the back wrinkles... maybe Clio's solution to her Nettie post baby will work for you too... http://fivemuses.blogspot.co.uk/2016/04/nettie-sweater-dress-times-two.htmloverflowingstashhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15541994272534658220noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7351864927910092883.post-60821258684463286062016-05-13T15:45:15.405-07:002016-05-13T15:45:15.405-07:00Stuart had some lesson on tension lines. If I reca...Stuart had some lesson on tension lines. If I recall correctly vertical negative ease only make sense if bottom of the garment will go through the legs & hold the garment under vertical tension as well as horizontal tension. Using normal negative ease anywhere where the tension will be broken by a cutout - eg hem, low cut neckline, etc will lead to draglines.overflowingstashhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15541994272534658220noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7351864927910092883.post-49661127584013924752016-05-12T23:18:24.082-07:002016-05-12T23:18:24.082-07:00I do several wedge alterations and one of these mi...I do several wedge alterations and one of these might help your excess at the back. Basically you want to add or remove (I'm thinking remove here) a long thin wedge Which starts at a point where the amount is OK and then have two straight lines from that point which when brought together like a big dart would remove the excess. On the back I always seem to end up with a centre back seam to accommodate this but you can treat as a dart and rotate into a seam or an actual dart if preferred.SewRuthiehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09277062926597842242noreply@blogger.com