I am working on a Chanel-inspired jacket, and am auditioning buttonholes. I've never actually sewn anything other than a regular box buttonhole using my sewing machine. The chances of me ever hand-working a buttonhole are pretty much zilcho. I could try a bound buttonhole, but tweed fabric seems a little bit fussy for my first ever bound buttonholes. I tried sewing a "Spanish Snap Buttonhole", following the instructions in Roberta Carr's "Couture the Art of Fine Sewing", as shown in the photographs above. What do you think? There seems to be a bit of a gap for the buttonhole opening. The top two were made using a poplin for the backing fabric and the bottom one using a thicker wool, though I don't have any of that in black.
I had never heard of Spanish buttonholes until the Sydney Sewers High Tea and Francis had a gorgeous jacket with these buttonholes. I didn't get to inspect them too closely but they look at less bulky than a bound buttonhole. I like the look of the bottom one using the thicker wool, but I suppose it all depends on the width/depth of your button.
ReplyDeleteI'd love to see your version of a Chanel! I like the look of the top right one. It's hard to figure out what works with bulky fabrics, I know. Another option to try might be this method Sherry did here - http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.co.nz/2011/09/bound-buttonholes-some-refinements.html. I auditioned about 7 different buttonholes for a cashmere cape last winter. Finally went with this one using silk charmeuse (my lining fabric) as the buttonhole "welts" and I was really pleased. I *think* interfaced the charmeuse for a bit of crispness.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the link Amy! I like the idea of using charmeuse for the welts. Will try that today.
DeleteHuh, I've never tried any hand-done buttonholes, either. I have a vintage costume drafting book which shows oodles of stitches for doing buttonholes. That's one of those thing I'll do in my "someday" category!
ReplyDeleteI like the one on the top right, too. It's elliptical (eye?) shape looks sharp.
Fascinating! I haven't heard of this type of buttonhole before. 2 years ago, I wasn't even aware there were TYPES of buttonholes. My oh my. I'm looking forward to seeing how this jacket of yours turns out! :)
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