Getting the pattern I wanted

A couple of years ago, I had some success with the Pin-Up Girls "Linda" bra pattern.  When I was placing an order for bra-making supplies earlier this year, I saw that they had produced a new pattern for a demi-bra with front closing, the "Sharon" bra.  It looked pretty similar to the Linda pattern, and I probably could have made the changes myself, but sometimes it is easier to have somebody else do all the work for you, right?  Uh-uh.

I made the pattern up and it didn't fit well at all.

Problems for me

• To be fair, part of the problem may be that I used a fabric with no give (Duoplex),  and maybe I need a bigger cup on one side.  I ended up with a double boob, and let me tell you, I didn't think I had enough flesh for a double boob.  
• The straps are made from 5/8" elastic.  The pattern I bought is for A - AAA cups.  Whilst 5/8" may be fine for larger caps, I think it is disproportionate for these cups and I would have prefered that they changed to 3/8" elastic for the smaller cup sizes.
• Using a 5/8: ring to attached the straps means that this ring is held in place by 3/8" elastic (the armhole elastic), so it is flimsier than a 3/8" ring would be.
• The straps position is less than flattering.  They are positioned above the BP.  All my RTW bras use a wider position, which I prefer.  
• I used the recommended wires for this pattern, but they are too short, which I think is part of the reason why the bra rides up at the front when I raise my arms.

I was pretty cranky that I had bought an expensive pattern and wasted good-quality materials on this bra.

I sat down to consider the features that I really wanted in a bra.  This is what I came up with;

• demi-bra coverage
• cup with vertical or steeply diagonal seaming
• back band that curves downward (to take into account the back dart that we put in fitted clothing)
• 3/8" elastic straps (I know some people prefer fabric straps, but my straps don't fall off and I think that the elastic looks prettier)
• The other side of the strap ring to be held in place with fabric, rahter than elastic, as this elastic is one of the first places to show wear in my bras. 
• padding optional
• back elastic can be connected with either a t-intersection or an integrated strap

I combined several patterns to come up with the pattern I wanted.  The bridge pattern is customised to my shape.  The band piece is from the "Linda" pattern.  For the cups, I was guided by KwikSew 3300 and Elan 540.  I wanted less coverage that the Kwiksew and more than the Elan. 


This is a comparison with the Kwiksew pattern.  I did mess up a bit here.  I assumed that the Kwiksew pattern that I had copied, cut out and left in the envelope was my size, but it was actually a 32A, not a 34A.  I have been using wires for a 34A, which only just fit in.  I made this cup up 4 times before I realised.  Next year, I will modify for longer wires with a wider diameter.  If you click on the photo, you can see that the top of the cup has a different shape.

Here is a comparison with the Elan 540.  Slightly different curvature in the cups, due to mistake mentioned above. 

Here are the completed bras, made using a kit from Bra-Makers Supply.  I like pretty bras, but beige ones are far more practical.  I think that this one is both beige and pretty.  The fit is good and it is comfortable.  Maybe a tad snug around the rib-cage, but the elastic will probably give with a few washes.

I made another one in blue / white.  I thought this combo would be cute, but I actually don't like it as much as the beige one.  Maybe because I haven't finished it off with a satin bow (It took me ages to work out how to make those bows)?