Comfy and Chic? Really.

This is the dress that I never want to take off. It is sooooooo comfortable. I have washed out the colour of these photos so that you can see the front detail.

I love scarves more than jewellery, mostly for the pop of colour that they add.

The pattern: Vogue 8530

I made a few minor alterations to the pattern; shortened the length, cut the back on the fold and omitted the back slit, and made longer, narrower cuffs so that I could get a blousing effect in the sleeves.

I tried a new approach for my fit alterations, cutting a size 6 in the front and a size 12 in the back. This seemed to take care of the narrow chest alteration and the forward shoulder alterations. I fiddled about with the pleats a little, to get them to sit right on me. There was enough ease that I didn't need to add any width in the hips, in spite of measuring a Sz 16.

The fabric: Purdie Blue Charcoal from Tessuti.

This photo shows the colour. The fabric has a beautiful, heavy drape, which I think is essential for this dress style to be flattering. It is also very soft. I only wish my tights were so comfortable...that is the only reason that I have not worn this dress every day this week.

Replenishing stocks

This week I have been replenishing stocks in my underwear drawer. Several years ago I made up a couple of bra kits. I got all enthusiastic and ordered supplies to make bras, made one and then sort of lost interest. I think it was because I wasn't happy with the patterns I was using and didn't have the knowledge / confidence to alter them. Lately I have been inspired by other sewers' lingerie efforts so I started afresh with a new pattern.

Usually I don't have the persistence to perfect a pattern to TNT status, but I think it is worthwhile for a bra, so here you have my first 4 versions. Sewing a bra is a bit tricky, so making 4 in a row has improved my construction techniques as well.


The pattern: Well, if you are wondering why anyone would make a bra, let me tell you what size I made. I started with 34AAA. No, that's not a typo and it is not a size you see in the shops. I made 2 in this size and then decided I was a 34AA, which is sold by a couple of (usually expensive) brands. Bra-makers Supply have produced their "Linda" partial band bra in sizes 30AAA - 40A, which is the pattern I used.

Fabric and Notions: All my fabric and notions are from Bra-makers' Supply. The quality is Superb!!! I am especially impressed by the channelling, which is flatter than other supplies and slightly stretchy for sewing around curves. I bought the supplies 2 years ago, and I can't remember what the exchange rate was then, but from memory, it worked out to $15 - $18 per bra for 5 bras, including shipping from Canada. I have recycled the wires from old bras. The fabric is Antron Jersey, which is too sheer for my taste. Next time I will try something else. These bras are much lighter than other in my drawer.

Fitting: The pattern drafting is great, but the bridge was way too wide for me. The bridge pattern gets wider as the cup size gets smaller, which seemed a little odd, but maybe it works for other people. Beverley Johnson has a great tip in her book "The Bra-makers Manual" for fitting the bridge (p126). Trace the bridge on a piece of cardboard to make a template. Cut the template up the centre front and angle the sides in the space between your breasts. Use a paperclip to hold the 2 sides of the template in position. If the bridge needs to be wider, you may need to add width to the centre front when you make your template. For a partial band bra with 1/4" SA, the bridge pattern will be the same size as the template. For a full band bra, you will need to add the SA to the sides of the bridge template. It is a shame that I didn't read this bit of her book until I made my 4th version.

Instructions: I used the instructions in the pattern and Beverley's book. There are a couple of typos in the pattern...I think the listed wire sizes for the 34AAA and 36AAA cups are incorrect and the instructions have you insert the wires through the channelling at the centre front when it is the underarm end that has been left open for these wires. I also have a great article by Jill Bradshaw in Australian Sitches ("The Pearl Bra - A Gem in the Booby Traps Collection") which photographs all the steps for making a partial band bra.

I padded 2 of the bras, one with fusible fleece and one with covered foam. I didn't have good instructions for this but I muddled my way through. Next time I will cut the covered foam piece lower so that it doesn't get caught in the neckline elastic.




I did have a photo on me to show the fit, but I got shy and deleted it. If anybody is curious about this pattern and wants to see the fit, email me at katherine dot peter at bigpond dot com and I can send you the photo.

Draping a sundress

Not many of my real, live friends know that I have a blog. One of the reasons is that I don't want to admit to real people that I stand about on a winter's night wrapping myself in fabric and looking in the mirror. However, I'm guessing that if you are reading my blog, then this won't seem like such a strange thing to do.

Last night I needed some sewing therapy, but for various reasons I won't admit, my sewing machine was out of action, so I returned to a project (literally, picked it up off the floor of my sewing room) that I started months ago. One of my sewing frustrations is that fabric that looks fabulous wrapped about me doesn't always look so good when it is made up into clothing. I think it is a fitting thing, but I can get better drape holding fabric then sewing a pattern (same thing for hair...why can't bobby pins do what my fingers can do?). So I thought I would drape a pattern on myself. No mean feat, but those ballet classes are paying off with increased flexibility!

Now did I say that there would be no more hazy-in-the-mirror shots? Bah, humbug!


This is going to be my base pattern for sundresses this coming summer. It is an a-line shift with french darts. I love french darts and use them in most of my self-drafted patterns. It looks pretty plain in muslin, but don't think "plain", think "clean lines". I'm thinking cool, crisp cottons, probably with retro detailing. I might even sew up a strapless version.

I wish I had taken a better photo of the side view before I took all the pins out, because it is hard to tell if the side seam hangs straight. I may use a shaped centre back seam rather than just rely on darts.

Oscar goes casual

Well, this blouse got the thumbs down in my house, which was a little bit crushing, because I thought it looked good and had it on ready to wear somewhere when the comments came. Peter thought it was all a bit scrappy (I was thinking creative) and my youngest kept telling me that he could see my belly button. I guess his eye-line is at belly button height. Anyway, it was just made out of scraps...I am still deliberating whether to make the pattern up in a silk / cotton fabric I have stashed.

The pattern is Vogue 2946. I probably don't need to provide a picture, I just need to say that it is the Oscar de la Renta blouse with ruffles and a ridiculously low, scooped neckline or a great big bow stuck on the front. And still, I bought it. Let me add that there is no shaping in the side seams and no darts anywhere (although front panel is gathered), which means fabric choice is crucial. I used the left-over marle knit from my previous post and a sheer, silk scrap left-over from a blouse that I made for my Mother. I only had one layer of ruffles and I didn't hem them. I ditched french seams for my overlocker and used knit techniques to bind the neckline and armholes.

I started with a Sz 12, but instead of a narrow chest adjustment, I graded to a Sz 6 through the front armhole. Now, my bust point sits a little high, but I swear that two-thirds of my breast tissue was exposed, so I took up the front and back shoulders 4 cm each and lowered the armholes. Next time I will start with a Sz 6. Let me add that I have never, not-ever, come close to a Sz 6. In my late teens, when I recall being a mere 52 kg, I used to cut out a Sz 10. I would propose that anybody with a small enough bust to not need darting is not going to want a scoop that low. And still, I bought it. I guess I just liked the ruffles, which is not really a good enough reason to buy a pattern given all the articles I have that describe how to make circular ruffles.